SAN  FRANCISCO 

THE  •  CITY  •  OF  •  THE 
GOLDEN  •  GATE 

TWENTY  •  FIVE  •  PICTURES 


fl  BY  -  JOSEPH  •  PENNEIX 


THE  CITIES  SERIES 


I 


Frontispiece — on  Cover 

THE  CITY  FROM  THE  HILLS 


SAN 
FRANCISCO 

THE  CITY  OF  THE 
GOLDEN  GATE 

by  JOSEPH  PENNELL 

BEING  TWENTY-FIVE  RE- 
PRODUCTIONS IN  PHOTO- 
GRAVURE FROM  ETCH- 
INGS &>  DRAWINGS 


BOSTON 
LE  ROY  PHILLIPS 


Pillans  &  Wilson,  Printers,  Edinburgh 


THE    LIST  OF  CONTENTS 


Frontispiece—on  Cover 
THE  CITY  FROM  THE  HILLS 

I  MARKET  STREET 

II  FROM  THE  BAY 

III  THE  TWIN  PEAKS  FROM  MARKET  STREET 

IV  RUINS 

V  CHINATOWN 

VI  A  HILLTOP 

VII  FROM  TELEGRAPH  HILL 

VIII  SING  FAT  AND  SING  CHONG 

IX  RUSSIAN  HILL 

X  TELEGRAPH  HILL 

XI  ON  THE  BARBARY  COAST 

XII  SAN  FRANCISCO  FROM  THE  FAIRMONT 

XIII  AFTERNOON  :  FOG  COMING  ON 

XIV  ISLES  OF  THE  BAY 

xv  from  stevenson?s  house 

XVI  AFTERNOON — SAN  FRANCISCO 

XVII  THE  LAST  OF  OLD  SAN  FRANCISCO 

XVIII  DOWN  AND  UP  THE  HILLS  TO  THE  BAY 

XIX  THE  PLAYGROUND  FROM  CLIFF  HOUSE 

XX  CALIFORNIA  STREET 

XXI  KEARNY  STREET 

XXII  FROM  THE  BAY 

XXIII  FROM  MOUNT  TAMALPAIS 

XXIV  SACRAMENTO  STREET 


MARKET  STREET 


MARKET  STREET  IS  THE  MAIN  ARTERY  OF  SAN  FRAN- 
CISCO :  EAST  AND  WEST,  STRAIGHT  ACROSS  THE  CITY 
IT  RUNS.  AT  ITS  FOOT  IS  THE  CLOCK  TOWER  OF  THE 
FERRY  BUILDING — THE  WATER  GATE  OF  THE  CITY — 
AND  THE  TERMINAL  OF  THE  OVERLAND  RAILWAY 
LINES.  IN  ITS  WESTWARD  COURSE  IT  COMBINES 
COMMERCIAL  THOROUGHFARE,  SHOPPING  DISTRICT, 
AMUSEMENT  CENTRE,  AND  BOULEVARD.  ITS  BROAD 
PAVEMENTS  SWARM  WITH  A  GAY  THRONG  OF  STROL- 
LERS, SHOPPERS,  AND  BUSINESS  MEN.  THE  STREET 
IS  ALIVE  WITH  CARS  AND  AUTOMOBILES — BIG  SIGHT- 
SEEING MOTORS  MEGAPHONE  THEIR  WAY  OUT  TO  THE 
CLIFF  HOUSE  AND  GOLDEN  GATE  PARK.  THE  WHOLE 
IS  A  BRILLIANT  PANORAMA  OF  LIFE,  ENERGY,  AND  EN- 
JOYMENT. 


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THE  TWIN  PEAKS  FROM  MARKET  STREET 

MARKET  STREET  ISTHE  BROADWAY  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO. 
LOFTY  BUILDINGS  MAKE  IT  A  CANON  OF  SHADEON  ONE 
SIDE,  SUNSHINE  ON  THE  OTHER.  AT  ITS  EASTERN 
END  RISES  THE  FERRY  BUILDING,  AND  AT  THE  WEST 
ARE  THE  TWIN  PEAKS  THAT  DOMINATE  THE  CITY  FROM 
THIS  QUARTER. 


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V 


CHINATOWN 

IN  THE  CHINAMAN  CENTRES  GREATER  INTEREST  AND 
GREATER  MYSTERY  THAN  IN  ANY  OTHER  FOREIGNER 
OF  COSMOPOLITAN  SAN  FRANCISCO.  HE  OCCUPIES  A 
CITY  WITHIN  A  CITY.  THE  POPULATION  OF  CHINA- 
TOWN HAS  BEEN  VARIOUSLY  ESTIMATED  AT  FROM 
FIFTEEN  THOUSAND  TO  TWENTY-FIVE  THOUSAND.  IN 
THE  RESTORATION  WHICH  FOLLOWED  THE  DISASTER 
OF  1906,  THE  ARCHITECTS  ENDEAVOURED  TO  UNITE 
CHINESE  STYLE  AND  AMERICAN  UTILITY.  MANY  DE- 
PLORE THE  PASSING  OF  THE  OLD  QUARTER  WITH  ITS 
WEIRD  FASCINATION.  YETTHE  GLORY  OF  CHINATOWN 
HAS  NOT  ALTOGETHER  DEPARTED;  THE  BAZAARS,  THE 
TEMPLES,  THE  VIVID  COSTUMES,  AND  THE  DISTINCT- 
IVE SHOPS  STILL  CARRY  MORE  THAN  HINTS  OF 
ORIENTAL  CIVILISATION. 


VI 


A  HILLTOP 

SAN  FRANCISCO  IS  DOMINATED  BY  HILLTOPS.  PILING 
UP  IMPRESSIVELY,  THEY  PRESENT  AN  ALMOST  SPECT- 
ACULAR EFFECT.  THE  BUILDINGS  ON  THE  SIDES 
AND  SUMMITS  SEEM  MONUMENTAL  FROM  THE  LOWER 
LEVELS,  AND  DISTANCE  LENDS  TO  THE  ILLUSION  THE 
ASPECT  OF  MEDIEVAL  BATTLEMENTS. 


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VIII 


SING  FAT  AND  SING  CHONG 

SING  FAT  AND  SING  CHONG  ARE  CONSPICUOUS  BAZAARS 
OF  CHINATOWN.  IT  IS  COMMONLY  SUPPOSED  THAT 
THEY  ARE  NAMED  FOR  THEIR  PROPRIETORS,  BUT  THE 
NAMES  OF  CHINESE  BAZAARS  HAVE  SOME  SIGNIFIC- 
ANCE. SING  FAT  MEANS  "LIVING  RICHES"  ;  SING 
CHONG,  "LIVING  PROSPERITY."  INTERESTING  HOURS 
OF  LEISURELY  SHOPPING  MAY  BE  SPENT  IN  THE  BA- 
ZAARS WHICH  EXTEND  FOR  TWO  BLOCKS  ON  GRANT 
AVENUE  (FORMERLY  DUPONT  STREET)  FROM  CALI- 
FORNIATO  CLAY  STREETS.  HERE  CHINESE  MERCHANTS 
LAY  BEFORE  THE  APPRECIATIVE  CUSTOMER  TREAS- 
URES OF  SILK,  BROCADE,  AND  EMBROIDERY;  OF  CARV- 
ED IVORY  AND  TEAK,  SANDAL,  AND  CAMPHOR  WOOD; 
OF  GOLD,  SILVER  JADE,  BRONZE,CLOISONNE,  LACQUER, 
AND  PORCELAIN;  BUT  MINGLED  WtITH  THESE  IS  MER- 
CHANDISE FOR  THE  DEMANDS  OF  THE  CASUAL  CUS- 
TOMER. MUCH  THAT  IS  MERETRICIOUS  AND  THE 
GAUDY  TRASH  "MADE  FOR  THE  AMERICAN  TRADE" 
ARE  ALSO  FOUND. 


IX 


RUSSIAN  HILL 

RUSSIAN  HILL  IS  THE  HIGHEST  POINT  OF  HILLY  SAN 
FRANCISCO.  IT  RECEIVED  ITS  NAME  FROM  THE  RUS- 
SIAN BURIAL  GROUND  WHICH  WAS  ON  ITS  SLOPES 
DURING  THE  DAYS  OF  THE  HUDSON'S  BAY  AGENCY. 
THE  CLUSTER  OF  HOUSES  SCATTERED  ABOUT  THE  SUM- 
MIT IS  THE  HOME  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO'S  ART  COLONY. 
FROM  THEIR  TERRACED  GARDENS  AND  THEIR  STUDIO 
WINDOWS,  NO  GROUP  OF  PAINTERS  COULD  FIND  MORE 
SATISFYING  VISTAS,  FOR  THE  WHOLE  PANORAMA  OF 
THE  CITY  AND  BAY  LIES  BEFORE  THEM. 


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XI 


ON  THE  BARBARY  COAST 

BETWEEN  TELEGRAPH  HILL  AND  CHINATOWN  LIES 
A  DISTRICT  CALLED  THE  BARBARY  COAST.  NO  ONE 
KNOWS  WHO  COINED  THE  NAME.  BY  NIGHT  IT  IS 
DEVOTED  TO  THE  DELIGHT  OF  THE  DRIFTING  POPUL- 
ATION THAT  HAUNTS  THE  WATERFRONT.  HERE  THE 
SAILORS  OF  THE  WORLD  DRINK  AND  DANCE  WITH  THE 
TAWDRY-CLAD,  MADE-UP  HABITUES.  BY  DAY  THE 
REGION  IS  MORE  DECOROUS  :  THE  DANCE  MUSIC  NO 
LONGER  BLARES  PANDEMONIUM  FROM  BEHIND  SWING- 
ING DOORS,  AND  THE  SHOPS  CATER  TO  THE  NEEDS  OF 
THE  INHABITANTS  WHO  DO  NOT  PARTICIPATE  IN  THE 
NIGHT  LIFE. 


XII 


SAN  FRANCISCO  FROM  THE  FAIRMONT 

THE  FAIRMONT  HOTEL — COPY  OF  A  EUROPEAN  PALACE 
— CROWNS  NOB  HILL.  THE  CITY,  FALLING  AWAY 
FROM  THIS  ELEVATION,  MAKES  A  PICTURE  OF  UN- 
COMMON BRILLIANCY.  THE  DESTRUCTION  OF  THE 
BUSINESS  PORTION  OF  THE  CITY  BY  THE  FIRE  OF  I906 
HAS  RESULTED  IN  THE  MODERNISATION  OF  THE  EN- 
TIRE DOWN-TOWN  DISTRICT.  THE  BUILDINGS  GLEAM- 
ING IN  THE  SUN  HAVE  A  BRIGHTNESS,  FRESHNESS, 
AND  CLEANLINESS  NEVER  SO  NOTICEABLE  AS  WHEN 
VIEWED  FROM  THE  HILLS. 


XIII 


AFTERNOON  :  FOG  COMING  ON. 

SAN  FRANCISCO  HAS  AN  AVERAGEOF  THREE  HUNDRED 
DAYS  OF  SUNSHINE  EVERY  YEAR.  YET  ONE  OF  THE 
CITY'S  CHARACTERISTICS  IS  ITS  FOGS, — BENEFICENT 
FOGS  THAT  TONE  THE  ATMOSPHERE.  THE  GOLDEN 
GATE  ACTS  AS  A  GREAT  FUNNEL,  DRAWING  INTO  THE 
BAY  THE  WINDS  AND  MISTS  OF  THE  PACIFIC.  THIS 
ENVELOPING  FOG  PRODUCES  AN  ILLUSION  OF  COLOUR 
AND  MYSTERY  DELIGHTFUL  TO  THE  EYE.  ONCE  IN- 
SIDE THE  BAY,  AFTER  A  FRIENDLY  CONFLICT  WITH 
THE  SUN,  THE  FOG  INVARIABLY  RETIRES. 


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XV 


FROM  STEVENSON'S  HOUSE 

ROBERT  LOUIS  STEVENSON  HAD  MANY  ASSOCIATIONS 
WITH  SAN  FRANCISCO.  IN  1879  HE  PASSED  SOME 
DREARY  DAYS  IN  A  HOUSE  IN  BUSH  STREET  AND  ATE 
FIFTY-CENT  DINNERS  NEAR-BY,  DESCRIBING  ONE  AS 
"  A  COPIOUS  MEAL,  WITH  HALF  A  BOTTLE  OF  WINE." 
IT  WAS  BUT  A  FEW  SHORT  BLOCKS  TO  PORTSMOUTH 
SQUARE,  WHERE  HE  LOUNGED  IN  THE  SUN  AND 
LISTENED  TO  THE  TALES  OF  THE  VAGABONDS  OF  THE 
SEVEN  SEAS.  HERE,  WHERE  HE  RECEIVED  THE  IN- 
SPIRATION OF  SOME  OF  HIS  LATER  TALES,  THE  FIRST 
MONUMENT  TO  HIS  MEMORY  WAS  ERECTED.  IN  l888, 
STEVENSON,  WITH  HIS  FAMILY,  SPENT  A  SHORT  TIME 
AT  THE  OCCIDENTAL  HOTEL  IN  MONTGOMERY  STREET 
PRIOR  TO  EMBARKING  ON  THE  CASCO  FOR  THE 
SOUTH  SEAS. 


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XVI 


AFTERNOON— SAN  FRANCISCO 

THE  FULL  SUNSHINE  OF  AFTERNOON  IRRADIATING 
THE  WHITE  BUILDINGS  OF  THE  CITY  PRODUCES  A  FAN- 
TASTIC, ARABIAN  NIGHTS  EFFECT  ALMOST  DAZZLING 
IN  ITS  BRILLIANCY,  AS  ONE  GOES  FROM  SUN  TO  SHA- 
DOW, UP  AND  DOWN  THE  HILLS.  THE  HILLS  OF  THE 
CITY  MUST  ALWAYS  REMAIN,  AND  ONE  OF  THE  MOST 
CHARACTERISTIC  SIGHTS  IS  THE  CABLE  CAR  CRAWLING 
UP  THE  STEEP  INCLINES  LIKE  A  FLY  ON  A  WINDOW 
PANE. 


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XVIII 


DOWN  &  UP  THE  HILLS  TO  THE  BAY 

SAN  FRANCISCO  LIES  MAINLY  ON  THE  SHORE  OF  THE 
BAY  AND  ON  THE  STEEP  HILLS  RISING  FROM  IT.  TO 
MAKE  THE  PRESENT  SITE  OF  THE  CITY  SUITABLE  FOR 
AN  INCREASING  POPULATION,  AN  IMMENSE  AMOUNT 
OF  WORK  HAD  TO  BE  DONE  IN  CUTTING  DOWN  HILLS 
AND  RIDGES,  FILLING  UP  GULLIES,  AND  RECLAIMING 
THE  MUD  FLATS  ON  THE  BAY. 


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XX 


CALIFORNIA  STREET 

BEGINNING  AT  THE  FERRY,  CALIFORNIA  STREET 
EXTENDS  FROM  THE  WATERFRONT  THROUGH  THE 
WHOLESALE  AND  FINANCIAL  DISTRICTS,  BY  CHINA- 
TOWN, AND  UP  THE  STEEPEST  OF  STEEP  GRADES  TO 
NOB  HILL.  THE  CABLE  CARS  CRAWL  UP  AT  ALARMING 
BUT  SAFE  INCLINES  TO  THE  SUMMIT  WHERE,  CROWN- 
ING THE  ELEVATION,  STANDS  THE  FAIRMONT  HOTEL. 
IT  IS  AN  UNCOMMON  PEDESTRIAN  WHO  WOULD  CHOOSE 
THE  STEEP  GRADE  OF  CALIFORNIA  STREET  FOR 
PLEASURE. 


XXI 


KEARNY  STREET 

KEARNY  STREET  LEADS  FROM  MARKET  STREET  TO- 
WARD TELEGRAPH  HILL.  IT  HAS  ITS  DISTINCTIVE 
CHARACTER.  THE  LIFE  OF  THE  STREET  IS  APART 
FROM  THE  MORE  STAID  AND  REGULAR  LIFE  OF  SAN 
FRANCISCO.  PICTURESQUE  FROM  LONG  VOYAGING, 
THE  WATERFRONT  DRIFTERS  WANDER  ALONG  THE 
THOROUGHFARE  SEEKING  ADVENTURE.  WHERE  THE 
STREET  MERGES  INTO  CHINATOWN  AND  THE  LATIN 
QUARTER  IS  PORTSMOUTH  SQUARE.  AN  EXILED  CALI- 
FORNIAN,  QUOTED  BY  WILL  IRWIN,  HAS  SAID,  "IN 
HALF  AN  HOUR  OF  KEARNY  STREET  I  COULD  RAISE  A 
DOZEN  MEN  FOR  ANY  WILD  ADVENTURE,  FROM  PULL- 
ING DOWN  A  STATUE  TO  SEARCHING  FOR  THE  COCOS 
ISLAND  TREASURE." 


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XXIII 


FROM  MOUNT  TAMALPAIS 

MOUNT  TAMALPAIS,  ACROSS  THE  GLEAMING  BAY,  IS 
COVERED  WITH  CHARACTERISTIC  CALIFORNIAN  VER- 
DURE, MADRONA  AND  OAK,  LAUREL  AND  PINE,  MAN- 
ZANITA  ANDCHAPARRAL,  WITH  MUCH  LOWERGROWTH 
OF  FLOWER  AND  FERN.  HALF-WAY  UP  IS  A  FINE  GROVE 
OF  REDWOODS,  NAMED  AFTER  JOHN  MUIR,  AUTHOR- 
NATURALIST,  AND  RECENTLY  GIVEN  TO  THE  FEDERAL 
GOVERNMENT  AS  A  FOREST  RESERVE.  MOUNT  TAMAL- 
PATS  ANDTHE  MOUNTAINOUS  COUNTRY  TO  THE  SOUTH 
BRING  THE  REAL  FOREST  CLOSER  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO 
THAN  TO  ANY  OTHER  AMERICAN  CITY.  UPTHE  MOUN- 
TAIN WINDS  "THE  CROOKEDEST  RAILWAY  IN  THE 
WORLD."  FROM  ITS  SUMMIT  IS  A  PANORAMA  OF  SEA 
AND  BAY,  MOUNTAIN  AND  SHORE,  WITH  SAN  FRAN- 
CISCO AND  HER  SISTER  CITIES  IN  PLAIN  VIEW. 


XXIV 


SACRAMENTO  STREET 

SACRAMENTO  STREET  IS  ONE  OF  THE  IMPORTANT 
THOROUGHFARES  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO.  IT  RUNS  WEST- 
WARD FROM  THE  FERRY,  PASSING  THROUGH  CHINA- 
TOWN PARALLEL  WITH  CALIFORNIA  STREET.  IT  HAS 
SOME  OF  THE  STEEP  GRADES  OF  THAT  HILLY  CLIMB, 
AS  IT  RISES  TO  THE  BETTER  RESIDENTIAL  SECTIONS. 
THE  SACRAMENTO  STREET  CAR  LINE  MAY  BE  TAKEN 
AT  THE  FERRY  BUILDING.  FROM  THE  WESTERN  DIS- 
TRICT OF  THE  CITY  IT  RETURNS  ON  CLAY  STREET  AND 
PASSES  PORTSMOUTH  SQUARE. 


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Printed  in  two  colors,  and  in  attractive  bindings,  net  $1.00. 
Bound  in  finest  Velvet  Persian,  net  $1.50 

An  attempt  has  been  made  in  these  books  to  issue  at  the  lowest  possible 
price,  with  the  aid  of  the  latest  modern  processes  of  color  reprodtution, 
a  finely  produced  series,  sumptuously  decorated  and  illustrated,  so  as 
to  form  attractive  presentation  books 

RUBAIYAT  OF  OMAR  KHAYYAM 

With  illustrations  in  color  by  F.  Brangwyn 

THE  GIFT  OF  FRIENDSHIP 

With  illustrations  in  color  by  H.  C.  Preston  Macgoun 
THE  GIFT  OF  LOVE 

A  collection  of  the  noblest  passages  in  literature  dealing  with  love 
selected  by  A.  H.  Hyatt.    With  illustrations  in  color  by 
Lewis  Baumer 

SAPPHO,  QUEEN  OF  SONG 

A  selection  from  her  love  poems  by  J.  R.  Tutin,  with  illustrations 
in  color  by  E.  H.  R.  Collings 

AUCASSIN  AND  NICOLETTE 

With  introduction  by  F.  W.  Bourdillon,  and  illustrations  in  color 
by  Marjorie  Nash 

THE  CHARM  OF  LIFE 

With  illustrations  in  color  by  Frederick  Gardner 

THE  BOOK  OF  GOOD  FRIENDSHIP 

With  illustrations  in  color  by  H.  C.  Preston  Macgoun 

THE  GARDEN  LOVER'S  BOOKS 

In  attractive  bindings,  net  $1.00.    Bound  in  finest  Velvet  Persian, 
net  $1.50 

The  latest  modern  processes  of  color  reproduction  have  been  employed 
in  illustrating  and  decorating  this  series 

A  BOOK  OF  GARDENS 

Illustrated  in  color  by  Margaret  H.  Waterfield 

A  BOOK  OF  OLD-WORLD  GARDENS 
Illustrated  in  color  by  Beatrice  Parsons 

GARDEN  MEMORIES     Illus.  in  color  by  Mary  G.  W.  Wilson 
LE  ROY  PHILLIPS,  PUBLISHER 

29A  BEACON  STREET,  BOSTON 


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